THE JOYS OF IVES STREET
Once, when we were in a doughnut-indulgence phase and in mourning because our favorites were no longer available, we followed a blog lead to ALLIE'S DONUTS (3661 Quaker Lane, a/k/a Rte 2, North Kingstown 401-295-8036) and were rewarded for the detour. The doughnuts were good, not a replacement for our loss but very good. Early on Sunday a few weeks ago I walked the length of Ives Street and came upon EASTSIDE CREAMERY (170 Ives St, Providence 401-865-6088) and its multiple painted announcements: Allie's donuts are on location. I had no ready cash so I filed the info away for another day. Yesterday at 7:30 a.m. I headed back, bucks and backpack with me, only to find it wasn't open yet! Not in the mood for bagels. What to do?
Down the block is a Portugese bakery I've been observing. SILVER STAR BAKERY (150 Ives St, 401-421-8013) is open early and there are lines at the counter. Customers, mostly men, arrive in cars and pickups and exit the bakery with multiple bags. So plan B for me resulted in multiple raised glazes (with chocolate icing and without) a big long curlicued pastry which was basically a big long curlicued raised glaze, and the Portugese version of Italian fried dough. Our tasters complained that the fried dough was just chewy bread with sugar - they ate it all while noting this. The doughnuts, however, were light, satisfying and appropriately sinful.
by the way, the regulars all ordered bread, nothing sugary at all