Pizza J (967 Westminster St, Providence 401-632-0555) is a venture of Julian Forgue (of Julian's fame) and co-owners. It's on the near west side of 95, occupying a large airy space in a mini strip center, Pizza J looks like a modern pizza place ought to, relaxed and cool without self-conscious airs. It has an excellent, long wide bar, perfect for sharing a pizza and a couple beers. The pizzas are real, i.e., crusts are actual handmade pizza crusts not the ready-to-load crusts you're seeing everywhere now. And they're squarish. They deliver.
Pizza is the main thing but appetizers abound - most involve a fryer. There are wings and fries, fried mozzarella and vegetable tempura, all the comfort food indulgences. There's also a good sandwich selection, from classic Italian to Vietnamese. For me though, the best thing is skipping all ancillary items and going straight for the pizza. The white pizza with thinly sliced potato, elephant garlic and onion on a thin crispy crust was a thing of beauty and it tasted great. Even the leftover slices were terrific the next day. Beer selection is very good, wine is basic and there's a full bar.
Venture to the west side, worth the trip. http://pizzajprovidence.com/
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