Monday, October 15, 2012


Not much free time on a quick trip to New Orleans, a city about which I know zip. We followed advice and headed to Cochon (930 Tchoupitoulas Street  504-588-2123) in the warehouse district and ordered the gumbo and the redfish (as we had been instructed). The gumbo was terrific but maybe gumbo is not a culinary high mountain. Getting fish perfect is a Kilimanjaro scale and Cochon's redfish was amazing, a right-on-the-money combination of spices and grilling. The fish slid from the skin.

Before and after pictures tell all: a clean-plate-club night. Ordering pineapple upside-cake is excessive - who needs pineapple upside-down cake? You do. Walk a mile to a restaurant and a mile back and you'll knock a few calories off the gumbo, and the fish is pretty lean, but the butter and sugar in this sensational little cake will do you in if you're putting a thought to calories. Or maybe you were already done in by the lunch-time shrimp po-boy at Domilise's (5240 Annunciation Street,  New Orleans 504-899-9126) another go-to from the unnamed advisor (for whom our respect is climbing) where you sit between cops with glocks and Tulane students.

Said advisor suggested breakfast at Elizabeth's (601 Gallier St. New Orleans 504-944-9272) with specific instructions: order fried chicken livers and eggs and a side of praline bacon. This rich over-the-top flavor was beyond good and our guide hadn't mentioned that even the biscuits and grits were worth the trip. Have you tasted praline bacon? Not for the sugar shy, it's proper home could be the dessert plate, but when you're in this deep with the fried chicken livers and biscuits you may as well wallow.



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