Saturday, May 22, 2010

Downtown: Red Fez

RED FEZ (49 Peck Street, Providence 401-272-1212) has a certain aura, a coolness factor promoted by its very lack of promotion - no sign, etc. It's easy to see why it's popular - the menu is short and cheap, the beer list extensive, the fresh-ingredients cocktails interesting. It's dark but not cavelike in the first floor bar; black and white lino floors, red lights hanging over the bar and red art define the space.The second floor bar/dining room is larger, great stuff on the walls. It's a small plates menu of burgers, quesadillas, soups, pulled pork and the popular macaroni and cheese. Recent entries on the special board included charred Cape Judith squid (tarted up with too many extras unfortunately) and a good curried corn soup. Most dishes, and desserts, have a little twist to dress them up but it's simple fare, and, I would guess, that's the way everybody wants it. It's not really about the food. It's about being Red Fez. That's okay.

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