Saturday, September 25, 2010

Vacation Notes: Part 1




Not really notes - just pictures from a Saturday market in France (Lyon, September 18). The vegetables and fruit displays were beautiful, as usual, but the standouts were mushrooms, which, when we were walking in the Alps a day earlier, we could actually smell.



The bad news, we couldn't buy mushrooms because we were in a hotel. The good news, we were forced to eat out in Lyon ...
 

Thursday, September 23, 2010

Vacation over! Back to RI

THIS WEEKEND: A Chefs Collaborative team, led by Matt Jennings of La Laiterie/Farmstead (www.farmsteadinc.com) is presenting a "down-on-the-farm" cookout this Sunday, September 26 from 4:00 to 7:00 p.m. at Schartner Farms (www.schartnerfarms.com), Route 2, Exeter. It's a fund-raiser for RAFT Heirloom Grow-Out, an organization which works on building community through chef-farmer collaboration. The dinner features barbecue dishes;  locally-grown produce and locally-raised meats will be served with, of course, local wine and beer. All to be prepared by local Rhode Island and Massachusetts chefs. Tickets are $50 for adults, $10 for kids over four and $25 for students and farmers. For tickets call the Chefs Collaborative (616-236-5258) or email alida@chefscollaborative.org. And check out the website www.chefscollaborative.org

NEXT WEEKEND The German American Cultural Society (78 Carter Avenue, Pawtucket  401-726-9873) is holding an Oktoberfest - Saturday, October 2 (3:00 p.m. - 11:00 p.m. for the Ratskeller and music) and Sunday, October 3 (noon to 6:00 p.m.) The food and beer are Oktoberfest fare. Alpenblumen Musikanten performs. Entry fee is $5.00. www.gacsri.org

Thursday, September 2, 2010

Wednesday, September 1, 2010

Bristol, RI: Persimmon

Champe Speidel, chef-owner with Lisa Speidel of the very small PERSIMMON (31 State St, Bristol  410-254-7474) is one of a handful of truly well know chefs in Rhode Island. Speidel opened Persimmon in 2005 after working as chef at Gracie's in Providence as well as at the old Empire and Neath's. In 2009 Rhode Island Monthly named Persimmon best restaurant in Rhode Island. My first visit was in 2005, three months after it opened and my most recent visit was in August, with four friends. I liked it the first night and like it just as much, maybe more, now. Five of us ate luscious appetizers and perfect entrees. The menu, short, focuses (like just about every other high-end menu these days) on local and seasonal fare. The offerings are innovative but without the silliness of too many ingredients (which so often are painstakingly, annoyingly detailed). 

To explain what I'm getting at I'll describe a recent dinner at a regionally very well known restaurant (let's call it L for local) in a city far far from Rhode Island. The venue is beautiful, a modern high-ceilinged room with big windows and statehouse views. The menu is simple and changes frequently. In reality, it's not far off from the Persimmon menu. L is "committed" to seasons and "passionately supports ... farmers." You get the picture. But it turns out that restaurant L is a foody altar - you get to order and eat but it's really not about you, or you and your friends; it's about worshipping at the altar. Our very tall and extremely soft-spoken waiter (when he leaned over to whisper details he was at a near 90 degree angle and in my mind's eye I saw him in formal dress with one hand, palm up, balanced on his back) gave us every detail of the composition of both the amuse-bouche presented.  I would point out here that Wikipedia defines amuse-bouche as bite-sized hors d'oeuvre and our second one was actually a third of a bite at best. It was a tiny cornmeal shortbread topped with a teeny salsa spread (far-sighted without your reading glasses, no way you would see it) made of ground cherries tended by middle-schoolers, etc. etc. No kidding. I never got past this speech. My entree of corn pancakes with summer succotash and braised kale was excellent but at this point we were in open revolt, laughing about 6th grade gardeners and worrying about the sanity of said server, who was not impressed by our irreverence.

Persimmon, happily, gave us no additional speeches about the ingredients or the farmers who toiled. Instead, we ate oysters in seaweed, Hudson foie gras with duck neck confit and corn chowder. We moved on to local bass on mixed vegetables, bronzino, chicken cooked in the sous vide method, duck breast with squash and rosemary, and a skillet-cooked beef dish. Five happy diners. So good, couldn't possibly eat more. We did, sharing three desserts: panna cotta with berries, chocolate mousse (yes, but it's good here) with caramel ice cream, and peanut cake with banana ice cream. Great dinner.

September in Rhode Island

COOKING AT AL FORNO - Here's your chance to work in the Al Forno kitchen (577 South Main St, Providence  401-273-9760). David Reynoso, chef, Phil Niosi, executive sous chef, and Debbie Barrett of Allen Farms in Westport, MA will run a hands-on class at the restaurant on Saturday, September 25 from 11:00 a.m. to 1:00. $65 to participate - to cook and to eat. Call to reserve a place. P.S. Al Forno also arranges cooking classes for groups (minimum, eight persons). www.alforno.com/

LOCAL HARVEST - If you're not already signed up, go to www.localharvest.org and take a look.

And if, like me, you associate September with at least one super-high-caloric gyro consumed while listening to loud Greek music and watching nostalgic fair-goers dance, you have another weekend of opportunity, September 10-12 in Cranston. Attend the Church of the Annunciation GREEK FESTIVAL, 175 Oaklawn Avenue (Rte 5)  401-942-4188 and do it all. Park at Cranston High School West for shuttle busses.









Friday, August 20, 2010

This Weekend in Rhode Island

Tomorrow is TOMATO SATURDAY at the Coastal Growers Market, Casey Farm, 2325 Boston Neck Road (rte 1A), Sauderstown. It's open from 9:00 a.m. until noon. 2010 has been/is once of the best years ever for tomatoes (and just about every other kind of produce) and at the Coastal Growers Market you can sample dozens of heirlooms. Go wild. Can't you just hear Guy Clark singing Homegrown Tomatoes? 
LOCAL VINEYARDS are all open tomorrow for tours. You can connect the dots on the four listed here and it's a pretty drive:

Sakonnet Vineyards, 162 West Main Road, Little Compton
www.sakonnetwine.com 
Newport Vineyards, 909 East Main Road, Middletown 
www.newportvineyards.com
Greenvale Vineyards, 582 Wapping Road, Portsmouth 
www.greenvale.com
Westport River Vineyards, 417 Hix Bridge Road, Westport, MA  www.westportrivers.com

Also in Westport, take the brewery tour and sample beer at Just Beer, 98 Horseneck Road. Saturday tours are between 11:00 a.m. and 6:00 p.m. For more info, www.justbeer.us/

ALL THINGS GREEK - The 83d annual Grecian Festival starts tonight at 5:00 p..m. and runs through Sunday at the Assumption of the Virgin Mary Greek Orthodox Church  (97 Walcott St, Pawtucket).

Friday, August 13, 2010

Providence Landmark: Al Forno

Loved, hated, or ignored, Al Forno (577 S. Main St, Providence 401-273-9760) is the most famous restaurant in Providence. Opened in 1980, Al Forno started out in the tiny Steeple Street space  now occupied by New Rivers, and moved early on to its South Main location. A mix of locals , eastbound travelers and visitors descend on Al Forno every night. No reservations for parties under six usually means a long wait unless you dine Florida-oldster style (get there when it opens - 5:00 on weekdays, 4:00 on Saturday) or arrive relaxed at 8:30. There are two floors inside (each with a bar) as well as an outdoor bar and leafy patio. You should know that you may have to put your name on both indoor and outdoor lists when you arrive if you're looking for the first seats available. My favorite room is 1st floor inside but under vines on a sultry night is nice too (warning: if you are a total country bunny and can't deal with highway buzz forget the patio) . 

People have strong emotions about  the place, and I think a lot of that emotion is easy to trace. 
Let's take the bad night. There's the 70 minute wait, the issue of the Dark & Stormy made with ginger ale, the annoying acolyte taking your orders, the a) service so speedy you know you're being rushed, or b) service so slow all fun is draining fast from your outing, the ridiculously high prices for appetizers and desserts, the toss & tumble cheater's lasagne which is deconstruction gone nuts, and the chocolate cake disappointingly bitter and dry. True, you loved most everything else. But really, there was no atoning for that 70 minute wait.

And a good night. You have drinks at the bar, maybe 30, 40 minutes, then head in to a table for four on the first floor. One of the specials is grilled pizza with pumpkin. You decide to share this and a buffalo mozzarella salad for appetizers. The salad is delicious;  the pizza is so good you want another. Orders of sweet potato agnolotti with black olive puree, roasted duck leg and sausage, grilled fish and lamb follow.   Shared fruit crisps and tarts are the finish. Satisfaction is evident. The wine selection worked. The timing went well. The waiter was clueless but not dreadful. Everybody happy.

I admit, Al Forno usually works for me. I think they deserve to be famous for the grilled appetizer pizzas and the made-to-order desserts. But I understand the complaints. The staff can be haughty and I can't help you there, but it is possible to work the timing or just make sure you have six people. 

If you get a chance, try one of their special dinners. Last fall they had a night featuring women who farmed - you met the women, dined on their products (with all the wine pairings done for you) and, seated at long tables, you met new people. A great time. And by Al Forno standards, it was a price performer.