Ellen Gracyalny who owns
Gracie's (194 Washington St, Providence 401-272-7811) recently opened
Ellie's Bakery just down the street from the restaurant (61 Washington St, same telephone).
Ellie's is managed by
Courtney Ortiz; the chief baker is
Danielle Lowe, a
Johnson & Wales grad who was assistant pastry chef at
Gracie's; and
Melissa Denmark, current pastry chef at Gracie's (also a
J &W grad and noted by
Food & Wine magazine in 2012 for her creations) contributes part-time.
Finally, I thought, after reading the gushing spread in the
Providence Journal this week, a French-style bakery in Providence. *
Right now I pick and choose or make my own creations.
Seven Stars (
www.sevenstarsbakery.com/) supports the olive bread habit, the occasional sticky bun requirement and the needed baguette sandwich for train
travel
but
Seven Stars doesn't venture much beyond breakfast pastries and cookies.
Olga's (
olgascupandsaucer.blogspot.com/) produces similar fare and makes some individual rustic tarts and pastries. Everybody has a go-to Italian bakery and I have my favored Portugese shops (
Silver Star on Ives with those Saturday jelly doughnuts comes to mind) but these satisfy a different need. If you ask "Where can I buy French pastry in Providence," someone will laud
Pastiche (
www.pastichefinedesserts.com/) on Federal Hill. I don't. So, where to find a splendid French tart or a gorgeous mousse and merinque cake?
Well, not at
Ellie's, at least not yet. The shop offers a variety of breads, attractive sandwiches (maybe a little too bready) but there was only one actual breakfast pastry when I stopped in this week. Mostly, it was muffins and scones. Among the traditional cookies there are
Madeleines, both olive oil chocolate and the more Proutian lemon-scented. They are good. Not a single fruit tart. The featured
spicy chocolate meringue tart is lovely and made especially flavorful by the chocolate crust. As for the
macarons (cookies I think I loved more when I had to cross an ocean to get them - I've hit macaron saturation at this point), the
salted butter caramel is a winner and I would say so is the
dark chocolate coconut if I were basing it on the meringue - the filling was so scant (see picture) I couldn't locate the taste.
I'm hopeful. Maybe the tarts and cakes will come once the business is developed.
Monday - Friday 7:00 a.m. - 7:00 p.m.
Saturday 9:00 a.m - 5:00 p.m.
graciesprovidence.com/ellies
*
There is the french tarte (774-280-4803) operated by Susan VandenBerg out of Hope Artiste Village in Pawtucket but it's not a walk-in bakery. Order ahead. www.frenchtarte.com