Le Central (483 Hope Street, Bristol 401-396-9965) has a big brasserie-style room and a menu which manages to evoke brasserie without screaming kitsch, neatly marrying New England and France. Right now it's open daily for dinner at 5:00 p.m. and open for lunch on Saturday, brunch on Sunday. But, if you are driving from out-of-town thinking "It's Monday, we don't need a reservation", I say call ahead anyway. This is advice for all smallish out-of-town restaurants because if the space is taken over for a private party that news is unlikely to reach you via the website. Anyway, if you want to sample oysters, raw or roasted, eat a country pȃté or savor a saffron-infused broth with cod and clams, Le Central offers you all. The prices (e.g. $9.75 for the pȃté and $17.75 for the cod and clams) won't kill.
Especially right now, in cold cruel January when for $30 you can dine pretty well on three courses and a complementary glass of pinot noir or pinto grigio. And, truth be told, you can even dine here for less.
www.lecentralbristol.net
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